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I learned that the South Indian blend podi – a rough grind of searingly hot, roughly ground spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if bamboo, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook 30 min
Serves a couple

400g firm potatoes, sliced into 1.5-inch chunks
225g paneer, cut into 0.8-inch cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 cloves of garlic, prepared and minced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
about 3 tablespoons neutral oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
10g fresh mint leaves, diced small
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and leave to steam dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for five minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Add the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the seasonings, then pound or blitz to a rough rubble.

Transfer to a medium-large bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then gently stir in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Skewer the components on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and set aside until needed – optionally, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Stir all the dressing components in a container. Preheat the broiler to its maximum heat, then grill the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the intensity of your oven, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, topped with a little more sea salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.